Bakmadan geçme !!!! ( Film afişiniz olsun) !!! (ingilizce)

merteral

Üye
Kayıt
1 Ağustos 2007
Mesaj
815
Tepki
27
Tekstil Grafik Kursu


Take a good photo of yourself and open it in photoshop.

Remove the background by using either the Polygonal or Magnetic Lasso Tool.

Once done we will convert your image to pure black and white. Now I am sure there are easier ways to do this, but I used the Cutout effect, to have more control.

Filter -> Artistic -> Cutout

Set the number of levels to 2, keeping the other 2 settings in their original position, press OK

Now your image has a vectorized look, but needs to be set to black and white. I used the magic wand tool to do this piece by piece, to avoid big black areas, with no detail whatsoever. Select the magic wand tool (press W) and set the tolerance at the top to a level around 50.

Hit D and then X to set the background colour to black. (Hit X again to set it to white again).

Start selecting areas and give them a colour to your liking. In general this goes pretty quick, especially if you untick Contiguous at the top. (This means that areas with the same colour will be selected, they dont have to be connected).

Once done you should have a black and white picture of yourself! If you're image looks to the left, go to Image -> Rotate Canvas -> Flip canvas horizontally to make it look to the right! This will look better in the end. If your image just stares at you, thats fine as well


Now, we will add the black partial background. Add a new layer and select the Polygonal lasso tool. Make a selection that covers the left part of the image, and spare some of the details of the image. so that means you will go down via the left side of the image, as you can see below:



Easy huh?! Now all thats left is the text and we're done! As you can see I have some blank space on my canvas available. If you have a shortage of space, simply increase the canvas size!

Image -> Canvas size

My best guess was Times New Roman for the font, ofcourse you may experiment with this yourself, but if you stretch it a little it comes pretty close I think.

First we'll start with the red text.

Type "AL PACINO SCARFACE". Select a font size so that it covers the width of your screen!

My settings:



Al pacino should be in the black part of the image, scarface in the right. Add some spaces when necessary.

On the left side there will appear the following text. Copy it to save yourself some typing



CODE
He was
Tony Montana.

The world
will remember
him by another
name

...SCARFACE


With the following settings:



At the total bottom of the original poster, you can also see the text:


CODE
He loved the American Dream.
With a vengeance.


Add it if you have the space available, I didnt, so I just left it out. Use a smaller font size, but set it to bold.

On the right, there will be room for the movie credits, again, copy + paste:


CODE
A MARTIN BREGMAN
PRODUCTION
A BRIAN DE PALMA
FILM
AL PACINO "SCARFACE"
SCREENPLAY BY
OLIVER STONE
MUSIC BY
GIORGIO MORODER
DIRECTION OF PHOTOGRAPHY
JOHN A. ALONZO
A.H.C.
EXECUTIVE PRODUCER
LOUIS A. STROLLER
PRODUCED BY
MARTIN BREGMAN
DIRECTED BY
BRIAN DE PALMA


Set it to align-right.

Use these settings:

for the names (only the name itself): font size: 27pt, vertically scale 125%
for the 'a' in front of the name: font size: 9pt, vertically scale 125%
for the 'E' in 'A BRIAN DE PALMA': font size: 22pt, vertically scale 125% (twice)
for the remaining text: font size: 9pt, vertically scale 100%

you should have an end result close to this:



click here for a bigger version

alıntıdır..
 

merteral

Üye
Kayıt
1 Ağustos 2007
Mesaj
815
Tepki
27
So anyone who knows me knows that I love movies. That said, I recently was overcome with inspiration when I saw the new Pirates of the Caribbean Posters. They are pretty sick.

When you look at the POTC Posters (That will be Pirates of the Caribbean and NOT Passion of the Christ from here forth....you know you were thinking it!) they all follow a general theme: A collage of imagery along the bottom, a bunch of enormously large heads along the top, and the classic parchment paper logo with a title slapped across it. Oh and some hot chick but we wont be using one of those for this. Boo.


After staring at the posters a few minutes, I decided to see if the movie poster could be achieved with normal everyday photos you'd find out on the "internets".



OK! Let's begin....


Here's what you'll need:



OH and a willing participant that can make "The Evil Face".


Christian:



I think we're set. Watch closely now, this will go fast!


Start with your open ocean.

Make the desired color adjustments.




Add a vignette and the boat.

I did a choppy cutout and tilted it to prepare for the wave of DOOM.




Add your creature.

I drew inspiration from the recent POTC poster, and added a large tentacle. Afterwards I inserted and blended the wave. Do your color adjustment accordingly.




Add some sheens.

I added some light sheens to the tentacle for the "wet look". I also threw in some color tints that will be used later on.




Add noise and overlay tones.

I used a dark green/olive overlay later. After that I added a black and white noise layer, blurred it just slightly and set it to Soft Light over the poster.




Add some grit.

Next I added some grit, dirt, and of course - an explosion!




More texture.

I added yet more GRIT and then used a parchment texture for the top. I did some adjustments to make the parchment more green and contrasted - then blended it in.




Add your head. Modify at will.

I took that photo i shot of Christian and adjusted the contrast and shadow/highlights. I then went in and manually burned the outlines of his face and color dodged some highlights. Lastly, I added a fantastic mustache and some eyeliner. Oh and I extended his eyebrows. Christian, such a saucy minx.




Almost done!

I next added some messy hair above his eyes add gave his chin some stubble. Also, I started implementing some background shadows.




Add some sparkle.

Next, add some orange overlay lights wherever you choose. When you are done - add palm trees on the sides!




And we're done!

Throw in some tonal lighting and shadows. When you're happy, toss ina mutilated logo and some casting credits. Done!



I hope you enjoyed this little photoshop quickie. It's not perfect and it certianly could get more in-depth, but I had fun making it. That said, let me see yours!

 

merteral

Üye
Kayıt
1 Ağustos 2007
Mesaj
815
Tepki
27
Visual effects in the style of 300

TUTORIAL - I was really looking forward to Zack Snyder’s movie ‘300′. Not for the acting, or the gore, but for the beautiful work done by the effects team. They did an amazing job of converting Frank Millers art to cinema. Like Miller’s Sin City, this is another hugely stylised work of art.

Image © Warner Bros PicturesHere’s a little Photoshop guide to mimic the 300 style. The effects could also be applied to video in After Effects with a similar setup. The aim here is to build the basic photoshop action with minimal tweaking. I’ve used basic shots but with good imagery you can achieve great results.
The 300 artists aimed to achieve a painterly watercolour effect in combination with photographic elements. They then applied a heavy sepia tone and the ‘crush’ - clipping the levels to pump up the contrast. Nearly all of the shots are heavily sepia. Post production took a year, so obviously there was a lot of work on each scene. No to mention the full CG environments.

In 300 there were a huge amount of ’sky’ shots. Almost every scene was set against a dramatic sunset with glare. Snyder preferred a polarized look to the backgrounds - contrast at the top, soft and light at the skyline. The photographic cloud shots were mixed with painterly effects - such as coffee stains… really. So to begin: One cumulus cloudscape. One scan of coffee spillage. The cloud backdrop does come down to composition (tweaking).
BACKGROUND SKY

Base level - Take a shot of cumulus clouds and apply ‘dust and scratches’ to heavily blur the detail to give it an arty feel. Then use color adjustments to give it a strong sepia tone with heavy saturation, then dodge and burn to achieve the polarized look - dark at the top, light at the bottom. The background plates of 300 were very grainy, so a dash of the film grain filter here as well.

Layer 2 - Coffee stains: To add to the overall painterly style, use ‘overlay’ on a scan of coffee stains. Yes you could use ink, but coffee is easy to come by and has that nice sepia tone. Droplets on a sheet of damp watercolour paper for a nice spread. Obviously you’re after a cloudy feel so this is a terrible example - but it’s test stuff.

Layer 3 - Cumulus clouds: A finishing layer of desaturated cumulus clouds with transparency, strong whites are a bonus. As the cloud in 300 was generally soft, this gets a low dose of dust and scratches also to lower the detail. This layer could be set to normal or screen on preference.

Layer 4 - And lastly, a silhouetted black landscape for depth set to multiply. These layers could easily be animated in After Effects.
FOREGROUND

Now to tweak the action plate. One suitable image… with transparency / blue screen. I used extract on this shot, useful tool. As said, the colours in 300 were mainly desaturated and heavily sepia, apart from deliberate highlights, with the levels tweaked to create high contrast.

1) Starting with levels we’ll mimic the ‘crush’. Pull down the light end to boost up the highlights, then push up the midtones to boost contrast. Then in the black channel only, bring up the low end to punch up the darks.

2) In hue/saturation, pull back the saturation. In 300, red was often left alone or even saturated for impact.

3) Now we duplicate the layer, set to colourise in hue/saturation and adjust it to sepia. We’ll set this to multiply. This gives the image an inky feel with sepia overtones. Adjust the opacity for strength. To this we’ll also add a fine film grain.
4) Now the finishing touches - peesa cake.
 

merteral

Üye
Kayıt
1 Ağustos 2007
Mesaj
815
Tepki
27
Using Illustrator's pencil tool and shapes of solid color, you can imitate the graphic novel styling of A Scanner Darkly. An animator from the film shows us how.


Director Richard Linklater's A Scanner Darkly impressed audiences this summer with a stunning 2D animation style that mixes heavy blacks lines with shapes of solid color to represent a realistic image. After filming the movie live action, we used proprietary vector software to animate directly over live footage, preserving the likeness and performances of the actors - a process called "Interpolated Rotoscoping." This tutorial will show you how I was able to recreate a similar effect using tools in Adobe llustrator. Using Illustrator's pencil tool and shapes of solid color, you can imitate the graphic novel styling of A Scanner Darkly.
1Select an interesting image for photo reference - the bigger the dimensions of the image the better. Go to File>Place to insert it into your Illustrator file.

2Since you'll be drawing right over the top of this reference image and you want it to remain untouched, you'll need to lock it on its own layer. In the Layers palette, double-click the layer and name this layer Image. Create a new layer to draw on by clicking on the Add New Layer icon at the bottom of the Layers palette and call it Blacks.

3Press N or use the mouse to select the Pencil tool, and check that the Fill color is black and the Stroke color is None. You won't be using the stroke color because you don't want the line to have a boring static width. Instead, let's can manually produce a thick-to-thin brushstroke effect by automatically filling in the region between two arcs drawn with the pencil tool.

4Double-click on the pencil tool and change the settings to those shown here (Fidelity to 4 pixels, Smoothness to 35%, and check both Fill New Pencil Strokes and Keep Selected). You may prefer to adjust these later on depending on the kind of result you want, but these settings are good for making a smooth descriptive line.

5You're now ready to begin drawing. Similar to inking a graphic novel, start by drawing thin black outlines around major forms and fill in the darkest regions. Remember to be expressive with calligraphic shapes that yield a more dynamic result. If you need more control, you can switch to the Pen tool and draw exact curves or straight lines; however, this can become time consuming. I prefer to draw quickly with the Pencil tool and then manipulate the results afterwards by using the Direct Selection tool to refine the shape and the Pen tool to add more lines. The Pencil tool, unlike the Pen, tool does not apply Fill or Stroke until you release the mouse, which is a particular advantage since it often hides edges you need to trace as you draw them. Toggle the Eye icon on your Layers palette to hide the Image layer to check your results as you go. If you release the mouse before you completely circumnavigate the shape you are tracing, you can simply draw another shape that completes the shape. Or if it is completely wrong, you can press Command-Z (PC: Control-Z) to undo that last action and redraw it. If your line is jagged or rough, you can use the pen tool to delete extra points to smooth out the shape. Deselect the shapes after you're satisfied with them by pressing Command-Shift-A (PC: Control-Shift-A).

6Once you have finished with "inking" the blacks, you're ready to begin painting in the color. I prefer to work from dark to light. Create a new layer underneath the Blacks layer and call it Dark Blue. Each color will have its own layer and be divided into four to five tones, each with its own sublayer. Press I or use the mouse to choose the Eyedropper tool and select the appropriate colors right from the photo. Drag the color from the Toolbar into the Swatches palette (Window>Swatches). When you're satisfied with your color range, double-click each color individually in the Swatches palette to set the swatch options and check the Global box. This will make it easy later on to optionally replace all instances of that color by simply adjusting the swatches. Make sure you are on the right layer and press N or use your mouse to switch back to the Pencil tool. Just like you did for the blacks, color over the reference image with the dark blue shapes. Finish all of the dark blue shapes before moving on.

7Now that you have finished all the dark blue, create a new layer and select the next darkest tone from the Swatches palette. Repeat the process of drawing over the reference image to fill in each new color. Toggle the Eye icon on your Layers palette to hide the Image layer and check your progress.

8It's important to stay organized with your layers because there will be lots of shapes and colors to keep track of by the end. If you don't stay organized, it can become a huge headache to refine the shapes later on. The Blacks layer should remain on top at all times, and each new group of colors they should go underneath the previously finished ones. That way you are always filling in behind what you've previously finished.

9Try to describe accurately the forms with your shapes, and don't be afraid to play around with colors until they mesh well. Some parts of the picture, such as people's faces, will require emphasis and greater detail. You will probably have to add a few additional colors to increase depth and to draw attention to those regions.

10Once the whole image is filled in, turn off the Image layer and clean up the illustration. I usually create a correction layer on the bottom that can be used to quickly fill in the gaps and a layer on top to cover over any ugly spurs in the shapes. Then unlock the Image layer and drag your reference image to the side to compare it with your drawing. Continue to manipulate the image until you are happy with the results.

I expect to spend four to five hours on an image this complex. You can reduce the time you spend by limiting your colors and detail. Good luck experimenting with this new technique!
 

merteral

Üye
Kayıt
1 Ağustos 2007
Mesaj
815
Tepki
27
In this tutorial I will show you how to take an ordinary photo, and make it look like it's a still from a movie. Now this photo is great as is, but its not so cinematic. So lets make it cinematic!



The first thing is add a new layer and create to longer black strips across the bottom, and top. This will give the look of a wide-screen movie.



It's already starting to look like a movie still. Now, we just need to add that movie look. Before I go into the look I have chosen for this photo. Its nice to know some of the looks. Hollywood has a few looks. The most famous is a blue hue, but I like the indie looking' style with yellow hues.



First, we need to add more depth in the photo. Go to Image>Adjustments>Levels.. Than we need to add to move the slider down ever so slightly. This is basically how much dark or light you like. I just made it a little bit darker.



After we made it a little more depth, and darker shadows. Lets get the colour going. The easiest way to do this is go to Image>Adjustments>Color Balance..



This will open a new window, and you can play with sliders to get the look you like. Since, I am looking a yellow hue look, I made sure the yellow is the highest value.



Now, under the sliders you will see a radio button for Highlights. Select that one, and I made the red the highest value.



Now your done! Hopefully you've now learned something about changing the look and feel of images using the color balance adjustments


 

merteral

Üye
Kayıt
1 Ağustos 2007
Mesaj
815
Tepki
27
Old Movie Effect
Modern cinematography is usually all about crisp images with high resolutions in millions of colors, but it wasn't always that way. In the early days of film, black and white was the best that you could get, and fuzzy hair-corruptable media was all that most impoverished film-makers could afford. In many ways we are much better off nowadays, but if you still hark back for times gone by, there is a very easy way to convert virtually any photograph into an image that looks like a frame from an old movie. Here's how...


Step 1:
Open up a stock image in Photoshop of any size and/or format. Virtually all images are suitable for this tutorial, but the best results usually involve large images with a generally high brightness. Desert photos offer excellent results. After all, westerns were very popular in the monochrome days!

Step 2:
Emulate a black and white effect by discarding the color saturation information in your image. To do this, select Image > Adjustments > Desaturate from the main menu. Many people do not like the default 'desaturated' look, so play around with the Levels and Brightness/Contrast until you are happy with the results.
Step 3:
Now to add some blur, depicting the poor quality of media during the time. To do this, just run Filter > Blur > Gaussian Blur with a setting of 1px.
Step 4:
We're getting there, but our image lacks old-fashioned film grain. Thankfully, Photoshop itself now comes to our rescue with a fantastic filter included as default with the program. So, to add grain, run Filter > Texture > Grain with the following settngs:

Intensity: 5
Contrast: 1
Grain Type: Vertical

And there we go! A quick and easy 'old film effect'! But don't stop there - there's several 'old film' brushes in the downloads section that you can use to further enhance your results! Have fun!
 

Meman Çiçek

Altın Üye
Altın Üye
Kayıt
19 Ağustos 2007
Mesaj
1.591
Tepki
39
Güzel çalışmalar sağol merteral birde türkçeye çevirirsek daha güzel olur bir ara el atalım tercümanlığa ;)
 

merteral

Üye
Kayıt
1 Ağustos 2007
Mesaj
815
Tepki
27
@Buark

tamam olur bir ara çevirelim benim ingilizcem fena değil ama çok uzun sürer kısım kısım çevirebiliriz sen de editleyebilirsin mesajlarımı ingilizcen iyi ise ok? yorumlarınız için teşekkürler.
 
Yukarı Alt